16 June 2010
Go South...or as far as you can
The Goal: to go as far south as possible. The Fear: to go as far south as possible. I won't go into detail on why, but just remember that time doesn't pass for long without an "event" occurring on the Lebanon - "Occupied Territories" border, and the current threat of a "build up" in the area doesn't make for a carefree expedition. (read more here on details). But I have to say I was proven wrong. Way wrong. This was my final road trip while here in Lebanon. I of course didn't do it alone.
Haitham, a Lebanese national (though many thought I looked more Leb than he did!!! (sorry!), and myself set off on a two day road trip south of the city of Beirut to explore the villages, the border region, turtle reserves, Lake Qaraoun and the dam.
First stop was Tyr and the old city. A maze of dilapidated homes that appeared to be strung together by an outdated infrastructure - the city itself still in need of investment after years of neglect. Then on to the Orange House and the Turtle Reserve. This true find is easy to get to (by car) yet as a foreigner, I had to get a special permit from the government in Saida. Once through, we were greeted by our amazing hosts and shown around the beautiful complex of gardens, plantations of bananas, goats, dogs and of course the incredibly quiet and desolate (unofficial) turtle reserve run by Mona and Habiba.There dedication to the cause of protecting some of the last stretches of beach for the annual laying of turtle eggs makes them heros in my view. We woke early at 5:30 to walk the beach with them to assist in observing and documenting the nests...unfortunately, that day the turtles didn't arrive. But they say the numbers are promising, but the funding is bleak and the threats huge. That day we had tar stuck to the bottoms of our feet. It seems a boat had dumped tar into the sea and it had washed up along the shore line...so sad.
Later that morning we drove down to the border. Its not as exciting or thrilling as it could sound. It was a dull (thankfully) day on the border. We came upon numerous road check points with Lebanese Army guys and then UNFIL troops, barricaded with concrete walls and razor wire. It was a desolate stretch of army fatigue and postcard stores...i bought a t-shirt. (sorry no pictures from here, as you can imagine)
We didn't actually get to look over the border, and were warned a number of times to NOT go south of Orange house, so we headed northeast up into the mountains and into the Bekaa, so see the beautiful vistas of the Lake and the dam. But you can't swim in it due to pollution.
It was a full two days, but as I shared before...its an amazing country, diverse, exciting, sad, small and yet accessible.
Here are some pics!
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